Gear Adjustments on Mountain Bikes

Gadgets: Rassel, rattling, scraping and chong-most people recognize the sound of a switch that needs to be adjusted. Here is a guide that shows you how to tinker problem yourself.

Today’s light and efficient switching systems have evolved from riders once had a switch on each side of the rear wheel. At that time you had to then stop and turn the wheel to adjust the gear ratio to the terrain. Given that the cycle before that was a standard single speed, it felt safe very fashionable to suddenly have two switches.

Today’s systems have upwards of eleven shared cartridges, and up to three blades in the bottom bracket. It still gives not 33 bills, as some are overlapped in terms of exchange.

There are three major manufacturers of complete gear system and component groups;Italian Campagnolo, Shimano Japanese and American Sram.

The manufacturers have put the most time and development is to get the gears as efficient and precise as possible. In the past, there were no fixed positions, and shift levers set on the frame. It was therefore to feel out the exchange, and it was not always easy to choose the gear with precision. Especially not at the cold, rain or cobblestones.

Today shifter with fixed positions developed in the late 1980s and early 1990s, they even built into the brake levers for racing-the so-called STI controls and Ergopower.2005, Sram their doubletap.

Common to all brands is that the gears are controlled by sliders. There sits the mechanism that determines how many bills there are to choose from. The mechanism is similar to a more or less movement with the gear with high precision, and where the size of each tooth makes that the rear derailleur moves exactly a gear on the cassette.

But it assumes that you use the same manufacturer’s components in combination. For example, you do not get a camping controls to work with a SRAM rear derailleur.

However, there are some other combinations that might work, such as Shimano gears with a SRAM cassette. And the brakes do not care nor much about the brand that pulls the wire. So it is possible to mix the individual components with each other, but generally works an entire system from the same manufacturer best.


Mechanical or electrical
Electrical switches for helmet lights have been on the market a couple of years, and there are advantages and disadvantages of this type of system. The biggest disadvantage is probably still the price. Electrical switches are more expensive than mechanical, but the price drops on the most expensive variants while also simpler groups become electrified as.

Electrical systems are also slightly heavier, but the difference is getting smaller and smaller every year. Shimano recent electric Dura-Ace should even be easier than the mechanical variant.

The advantages of electric switches is that they do not work worse with time, because there are no enclosures begins harsh wear or dirt. Nor are they affected as much by the mud, for example, on a bicycle motocross.

You can also have multiple controls on the handlebars if you want. Just plug it in and presto you have extra buttons that are easier to access for mountain goat or sprint button within you.

On pace bicycles, it becomes possible to change both the tempo position and in the buck at such a start pulling out of a curve.

Always start by making sure that the rear wheel, cassette and rear derailleur is correctly fitted and properly tightened. It is of course also forward gear and blade bolts. Bottom bracket must not loose and the wires should run easily. Is any part loose, worn or sticking, you can not get into gear adjustment. There are small margins between the cycle switches ideal in all situations, or just mediocre at times.

Exchangers from Campagnolo, Shimano and Sram look a little different, so check first where you have just your ändlägesskruvar before getting started.

  1. Switch to the heaviest gear – thus minimum kugget rear and large blade out.Exceptions: Do you have a MTB rear derailleur by Shimano Rapid Rise model can switch the other way, and the spring in the rear derailleur to move the switch to the lightest instead heaviest gear on the cassette .Then begins the lightest rear, and intermediate or small blade forward.
  2. Check that ändlägesskruven stops the switch from jumping past the last kugget. The switch will not be able to go past the last kugget if you press the switch outward with little manual effort. At the same time the switch obvious change to the heaviest quickly and precisely. Adjust if necessary.
  3. Switch one time with the slider.The switch will skip a gear quickly and precisely, without scraping or hesitation. Adjust by turning the vajerjusterskruven on the switch. Always switch back to the original position if it’s not perfect. Where adjust a little bit and then try again. Test until it works between the last and penultimate kugget. Once you’ve got the right on the two points, the rest work just as well all the way around the cartridge.
  4. When you come to the lightest gear (heaviest at Rapid Rise), set the internal ändlägesskruven to ensure that the switch can not switch into the spokes, ie inside the cartridge. When the adjustment is correct, the switch to jump to the correct position without hesitation or scrape when you switch, but not able to jump or be pushed past the last position. Check the adjustment by again, with little manual effort, trying to squeeze the switch past the last kugget. It should of course not be possible in this position either.

Tip:  The perfect alignment within about one turn the adjustment screw. Within this margin works exchangers as good, but outside of this range usually exchangers start scratching or hesitation.